Bondo and welding sheet metal

[sierra1boy]

Hey guys, I have another newbee type question. I hired this old guy to come over and do some rust work for me. I asked him if I should by some patch panels and he said not to worry about it, he would just fix it with sheet metal. I've been watching him work and I'm a little scared now. I don't no anything about body work so what should I be looking for? How much bondo is okay to use? What should the welds look like? What size sheet metal should be used, etc.? I could take some pictures if that would help. thanks guys!

[Jay128]

I dont know about the sheet metal, maybe Rick can help ya there. but NO BONDO is ok. Bondo will crack and chip away over time. Hopefully you can fix things to the point of not needing much body filler but if you do really need some go with a plastic body filler. Im getting to about the same work now and that what little (very little) I know. Oh and its never a bad idea to put pics up here. Look at my post in the "anything else" (first gen) forum called "Stupid Question..." (should still be on the first page). The pics of my wheel wells there is with all the bondo FALLING OUT between the sheet metal. But with the pics Rick and Joe were able to help me out with what it was.

Hope that helps some
-Jay

[joe69standard]

Body filler, bondo, is accualy fine. it is used in body work, constantly. Bondo IS bad if it is used over unprepared, rusted or painted metal. part of the body work is the filler application! So yeas bondo isnt somthing to be scared of if the surface is prepared correctly!

-joey

[joe69standard]

Ok the sheetmetal should be at smallest 22 gauge, it depends on the panel, but typical body panels are 22-20 gauge. The welds should look like a smooth bead, if it is porous, the metal has been distroyed and the weld blows! Thats MIG at least dont know what hes using

[Ryatt-Motion]

You should really use replacement panels that are pr-formed for your car. The only time I would fab my own panel is if it weren't available, or, if I had the ability to make it appear like the original. Some older body men are very set in their ways and, some are just use to half-assing it. Seriously, I would feed this guy his last sandwich and send him on his merry way back to where he came from. As Joe mentioned, mig weld seams should be nice and clean, not all blotchy. A lot of old school body men prefer to use the torch (oxy/ acetaline), which is fine, but you have to exercise great care and finness here, otherwise you end up distorting the entire panel. Body filler is OK to use, BONDO is not! I recomend Dynalite or Evercoat. The latters are light weight and automotive grade in contrast to the former. For primer, you can use PCL Pro-Etch for bare areas and PCL Polyester Primer for the flanks. With that being said, I think that about covers it. I believe you owe us some pics now! ;)

[sierra1boy]

Did I mention you guys are awesome, I don't know how I stumbled on to this site but I'm so happy I did. I actually know very little about my Camaro. I've had it for ten years but I've been working on multiple jeep projects the entire time. Now it's time to get serious about the Camaro.

Okay, here's some pictures of the work he's done so far...BTW, can I only post one picture at a time?

[Ryatt-Motion]

Sierra this guy is a hack, fire him now! That is the worst job I have ever seen. As Jessie James says, it looks like a dog chewed that on there. There is a rolled lip right there along that edge that I no longer see, which will probably have to formed out of filler (BAD IDEA) You can get that replacement panel from Classic Industries for $50 bucks, and a competent body shop can install it for like $300.00. Like I said, feed this guy his last sandwich and send him on his way. The dirty bastard is lucky I'm not there I would feed him a knuckle sandwich followed with desert, my foot shoved sideways where the sun don't shine!