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now you may ask what is the epoxy for, thats what all the people here use on the Nitrous kits. i haven't had not the slightest leak since i switched over and it eliminates the chance of getting Teflon tape stuck in the system. when you go to disassemble it just heat it up slightly and it comes right out. just an FYI...if you dont like to do so, then by all means substitute everywhere i use epoxy and use Teflon tape. i got held up looking for the parts, SO i am gonig to start doing this tomorrow
and post pics up in an article type post thanks guys
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![]() 1994 Z28 LS6 MS4 /T56 and a 9" -Jon- |
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Take LOTS of pics and show closeup details! We're waiting!!
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![]() ^^^ I HAVE THE COOLEST SIG ^^^ '97 Z28, A4, CAI w/K&N, Trick Flow Elbow,TB Bypass, Professional Products 58mm TB, 160*T-Stat, Man Fan Switch, MSD Digital 6 Ignition, MSD Blaster Coil, IONIZED PCM, Pacesetter LT headers, !EGR/AIR/CATS, Magnaflow catback, UMI LCA Relocation brackets, 3.23 rear end. |
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OK! so here goes!
![]() BEFORE YOU GET STARTED!you need a GOOD ammount of different sockets, extensions and nut driver bits for a drill, drill bits,a drill and a few other things NOW go ahead and assemble the fittings into the pump and regulator, you need 2 of the 3/8" barbs for the pump, now for the regulator, on 3/8" barb, the 3/8 to 1/4 npt bushing, the 1/4 NPT 1/4" barb, and the 3/8" to 1/8" npt bushing, to assemble these you put epoxy on the first few threads then screw them in and tighten them up just like you would do with Teflon tape or paste. basically your doing the same thing as you would with any other fittings and teflon, but this way your 99.9% sure there wont be any leaks, if you do find a leak take the part off, empty all gas and heat it up with a lighter or torch and it will thread right back out, but im sure you wont have that problem ![]() step 1: remove the front bumper,and bumper support bar, there are quite a few plastic expanding clips and 4 hidden bolts (4 7mm bolts right under the headlights one under each) the rest you should be able to see and remove with ease. (yes the bottom beauty covers have to be removed)it helps to have a friend remove the bumper with you, but i removed and re installed mine pretty easy. (now would also be a good time to delete the bumper bar for weight savings) when your done it should look like this: ![]() Step 2: gather all your parts, this is all i have listed in the above post (vacuum fitting isnt there yet nor the vacuum tubing): ![]() Step 3: MOUNT THE PUMP! i chose to place mine where the frame rail is, right in front of my cold air intake filter. i drilled a 1/8" pilot hole on both sides of the bracket and use 2 3/8" head sheet metal bolts and they do their job ![]() HERE HERE and HERE step 4: MOUNT THE REGULATOR! i affixed mine to the radiator support via 2 self tapping sheet metal 8mm head screws HERE where the gauge could face up to ease setting fuel pressure. you MAY or may not be able to mount yours right here due to the variance of the CAI kits for our cars. mine was a little closer to the intake than i wanted so i marked the spot, heated it up and used a 3/8" extension to put a small bend in it to clear the hose (i rolled the plastic out like rolling bread out, so it didnt just leave a small mark in it) HERE HERE and HERE step 5:connect the pump to the regulator. i used my 3/8" fuel line here, 2 worm clamps and about 1.5ft of line. clamp it down and rock out! Step 6: remove the washer Resivor. there will be 4 push clips in the resivor, an electrical connector to the pump and a nose for the fluid. disconnect these and tie them up out of the way. NOW grab a torch and the last 3/8 barb (like used in the pump), remove the pump from the resivor and all fluid still in it, pull the rubber bushing out also. now the fun part, turn the torch on and light it up,on LOW, heat the small hole up where the pump mounted just enough thats its mailable, use your 3/8" threaded barb and while the plastic is soft, push the fitting into the hole softly and thread it in 1/2 way just like you would do in any other material. now dont waste any time, thread the barb BACK out and let the plastic cool for about 5 minutes. when its cool to the touch, mix up a some more 5 min. epoxy, put a good amount on the fitting and thread it in a little ways, let it sit for about 30 seconds (to let the epoxy cure so its not so thin). after a few seconds have gone by, thread it the rest of the way in, then mix some more epoxy and put a good amount on top where the fitting was just threaded in. MAKE SURE ALL SURFACES YOU PUT EXOXY ARE CLEAN! it SHOULD look like this HERE HERE Step 7:connect the pump to the resivor (from now on refered to as the tank) use about 2 ft or so 3/8" line and 2 worm clamps DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE CLAMPS! DOING SO WILL DAMAGE THE LINE AND CAUSE LEAKS LATER ON DOWN THE LINE! anywhere the hoses hit a metal edge that was sharp or could cause wear, i sliced a vacuum hose (11/32" i think) down the middle and put a few dabs of epoxy on the inside to aid in holding it on the metal like THIS HERE HERE step 8:run the lines to the solenoid from the regulator, i cut a 2" slit in the factory fuel line convoluted tubing and ran it through where it passes right over the ABS box and out to the motor, i used about 3.5ft to accomplish this and used 2 smaller clamps on each fittingHERE HERE HERE and HERE now for the wiring use THIS diagram use a MINIMUM of 14 ga. wire, although i recommend 12 ga. and the corresponding butt connectors, and bolt grounds. heat shrink all connections or electrical tape but i recommend heat shrink and weather tight butt connectors all available to you through advanced, auto zone or napa ...bolt everything up and set your fuel pressure! Step 9: setting fuel pressure. to do so get a few feet of 1/4" line, disconnect the line from the solenoid, put it into the fill side of the tank, loosen up the lock nut on the regulator that locks the hex keyed screw tight, use the hex wrench that fits to turn the screw. now switch the kit on and watch the gauge and set to desired pressure (the kit you use will have a recommended fuel pressure that corresponds to your jetting KEEP IN MIND IF YOU HAVE AN EFI KIT YOU WILL NEED TO BUY JETS TO USE LOWER FUEL PRESSURE!!!! jets are not expensive and if you try to use the EFI fuel side jet you will be really lean and this CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR MOTOR!!! now bolt everything up, jet everything accordingly (speak to your kit supplier for jet settings) and go have some fun, the beauty of this is that you can put 116 or 110 in the stand alone tank so when you spray the car you will be less likely to detonate and wont have to run the risk of running the rails dry, leaning out your motor an having a backfire! im sure i missed something so i will update as i find missing stuff. keep the tank full and you wont have a problem with fuel pickup, added bonus:i decided to make a vent tube setup...all i did was buy 3 ft of vacuum line and a 90 deg fitting, drilled 2 holes and epoxied it in the top and blocked off the vent hole in the tank cap to prevent fuel overflow under the hood. so i ran the vent tube out to the bottom under the nose HERE HERE and HERE
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![]() 1994 Z28 LS6 MS4 /T56 and a 9" -Jon- Last edited by MeanGreen94Z; 06-14-2008 at 09:48 PM.. |
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