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Old 01-29-2008, 10:31 AM
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Question Won't start without warning

I've got a 84 z28 w/a 305, here is the deal. I hadn't driven the car for about a week, I decided to take it out Sunday night, all was fine. I drove it to work Mon morning, everything fine again. Mon afternoon I go to start it and not even a click. upon further review this morning, all wires to the battery and starter are fine. Grounds are grounding, and live has voltage, except for the lone wire on the right post of the starter. i used a ceiling clamp to hold the key in the start position, still no voltage on that wire. I'm new to chevy's, I know Chryslers had starter relays and ballast resisters which would cause these symptoms. NO clue as to where the problem is, I'm suspecting an ignition switch, just curious if anyone encountered something like this and how they remedied the problem. For the record the cpu has been removed from the car, one less possibility. thanks for any and all help
Mark
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:39 PM
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Well fortunetly for you the earlier third gens starting system is pretty simple. First your headlights and stuff still work and all that im guessing right? Also the voltage your trying to measureing is the 12v signal to the starters coil im guessing. How about the terminal on the starter that has the big heavy battery cable to it does that have 12v? If it does check to see if you have 12v at the connector that goes through the firewall or check the switch under the he dash it should be bolted to the steering coulm and have 1 of two mettel rods going to it (the other goes to the high beam/ low beam selector switch).
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1983 z/28 Project 350 LT1 from a 1970 camaro or corvette dual 500 cfm edelbrock carbs on a edelbrock c-26 maifold,Hooker headers, 3in dual exhaust, Comp cams 282s with solid lifter, 10:1 compression, 5 speed, and 3.73 posi rear.

Rich
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:49 PM
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i appreciate the reply, yep i've got 12v at the cable, as far as up to the fire wall, that would be the purplish colored wire in question(the one on the smaller starter post), that has no power. The headlights working I wasn't bright enough (no pun) to check. I do have hazards, a gas gauge, and a radio. Also I went to check the crank fuse under the dash, there is power there too. This switch you mentioned though, where and what exactly is it. This car was bought butchered, no cpu, I don't need to depress the clutch to start it, I'm just curious as to whether or not it exists in this car. The previous owner obviously went as primitive as he could with it. Thanx Again
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Old 01-29-2008, 09:17 PM
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Well thats ok hacked cars are my specialty lol. So first to answer your question in the earlier third gens the starting system is comprised of the starter/solonoid a nutral saftey switch and an ignition switch. Theroretically the way it should work when you start the car is the ignition switch will close its contacts and send power to the netral safety switch if thats closed it will then send power to the starter solonoid and start the car. Now the switch im talking about is the ignition switch. Its located under the dash bolted to the steering coulmb. Its bolted to the steering coulmb kinda above the gas brake and clutch pedals but more twords the driver seat. So esentially half way down the steering coulmb. I highly highly doubt that the previous owner would have removed this switch and replaced it. This is because when you turn the key what your really doing is forceing a mettle rod to push the ignition switch which is located further down the coulmb. To replace this (with something operated by the key) would require some extencive mods outside of the relm of your average hot rodder as well as being totally pointless. However you say that the clutch does not need to be depressed to start the car? Was this car an automatic at one time? If so ill almost bet the previous owner just tied the yellow wire (from the ignition switch) to the purple wire to eliminate the nutral saftey switch rather than find the right connectors and run some new wires and ill bet this connection fell apart. This is were things get interesting. Now if it was an auto and he took the easiest way out youll find this connection in the center console by the shifter most likely. If it was always a stick shift its also a possability that the nutral saftey switch on the clutch pedal is bad. That switch is bolted to the clutch pedal and brake pedal assembly also under the dash.
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1983 z/28 Project 350 LT1 from a 1970 camaro or corvette dual 500 cfm edelbrock carbs on a edelbrock c-26 maifold,Hooker headers, 3in dual exhaust, Comp cams 282s with solid lifter, 10:1 compression, 5 speed, and 3.73 posi rear.

Rich
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:40 PM
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Thanks again, I'm definitely barking up the right tree at this point. It appears that it isn't the ignition switch, but quite possibly the swahili'd jumper in place of the clutch switch. I was just out testing all of it, made a new jumper and went to test it just in time for my battery to die. at this point I'm walking away for awhile, I've already cracked my cowl induction, I'll let it go before I do something really stupid. If you ever need something I hope I can help you out. Have a good one Mark
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Old 01-30-2008, 03:09 PM
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Hey boss, UR GOOD! I don't know where your at, but to be able to see that halfarsed rig in my car from there, WOW. That was it, got a jump, it fires, now just gotta get it home. Thanks again
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Old 01-30-2008, 11:02 PM
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Well congrats on the car im glad I could help. Good luck with her and happy cruseing.
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1983 z/28 Project 350 LT1 from a 1970 camaro or corvette dual 500 cfm edelbrock carbs on a edelbrock c-26 maifold,Hooker headers, 3in dual exhaust, Comp cams 282s with solid lifter, 10:1 compression, 5 speed, and 3.73 posi rear.

Rich
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