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Old 09-17-2009, 03:34 PM
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t56 clutch or trans is vibrating

well i was getting on the hwy and i had it riv up to about 4000 rpm and whent to pull out of 3erd gear and it was really hard then when i got it out i couldent get it in any gear it would grind then i got off the hwy way and stop let it set for a bit then it was ok i could drive it and get in gear. but now if im over 1500 rpm it feels like im driving on torn up pavement lol and if it in nutrual holding the clutch in or out it will start to vibrate around 2000rpm.would this be the poilt bearing or clutch doing this or something elice in the trans
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95 trans am pace setter LT headers with ORY Hooker Aerochamber exhaus tb by pass Prothane Motor Mounts lca LT4 Knock Module msd coil taylor 8.2 wires madz tune slp 160 stat 255 lph fp 42 lb injectors 600B pro charger 6psi boost
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Old 09-17-2009, 04:28 PM
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Your clutch is trashed bro. Get a new kit and it will be fine.
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1996 Z28, OBD-I Conversion, SLP CAI, Hooker Super Comp Headers, Custom ORY, Custom Exhaust, 3.73's, It's Slow...
For everyone asking about Gear RPO codes, here they are...
Gu2 : Axle rear, 2.73 ratio,
gu4 : Axle rear, 3.08 ratio,
gu5 : Axle rear, 3.23 ratio,
gu6 : Axle rear, 3.42 ratio

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if you go, go long, and that is my moto.
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
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Your clutch is trashed bro. Get a new kit and it will be fine.
What he said. I suggest centerforce Dual Friction
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Old 09-18-2009, 06:12 PM
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well i order a spec stage 3 6 puck i hope it good i did a search and seem that what everyone uses
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95 trans am pace setter LT headers with ORY Hooker Aerochamber exhaus tb by pass Prothane Motor Mounts lca LT4 Knock Module msd coil taylor 8.2 wires madz tune slp 160 stat 255 lph fp 42 lb injectors 600B pro charger 6psi boost
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Old 09-18-2009, 06:17 PM
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If you use that on the street only, I think that may be a little too much clutch for you. When that clutch grabs, it grabs really hard. Be ready to stall out at a couple lights.
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1996 Z28, OBD-I Conversion, SLP CAI, Hooker Super Comp Headers, Custom ORY, Custom Exhaust, 3.73's, It's Slow...
For everyone asking about Gear RPO codes, here they are...
Gu2 : Axle rear, 2.73 ratio,
gu4 : Axle rear, 3.08 ratio,
gu5 : Axle rear, 3.23 ratio,
gu6 : Axle rear, 3.42 ratio

Quote:
Originally Posted by z95lt1 View Post
if you go, go long, and that is my moto.
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:02 PM
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i do a bit of city driving but mostly hwy i was thinking it might be like that i never had a really gabby clutch so it might take a bit of use to.are they hard to brake in should i do a bit of city driving to brake it in or dose it matter
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95 trans am pace setter LT headers with ORY Hooker Aerochamber exhaus tb by pass Prothane Motor Mounts lca LT4 Knock Module msd coil taylor 8.2 wires madz tune slp 160 stat 255 lph fp 42 lb injectors 600B pro charger 6psi boost
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:06 PM
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I will let someone that knows a little more to chime in on this one. I'm an auto guy, but I just know that the spec stage 3 has a crap load of grab.
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1996 Z28, OBD-I Conversion, SLP CAI, Hooker Super Comp Headers, Custom ORY, Custom Exhaust, 3.73's, It's Slow...
For everyone asking about Gear RPO codes, here they are...
Gu2 : Axle rear, 2.73 ratio,
gu4 : Axle rear, 3.08 ratio,
gu5 : Axle rear, 3.23 ratio,
gu6 : Axle rear, 3.42 ratio

Quote:
Originally Posted by z95lt1 View Post
if you go, go long, and that is my moto.
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:41 PM
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I would go a couple hundred miles without applying full throttle for brake in.
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fbodyracing1 View Post
i do a bit of city driving but mostly hwy i was thinking it might be like that i never had a really gabby clutch so it might take a bit of use to.are they hard to brake in should i do a bit of city driving to brake it in or dose it matter
I was told break-in should be 500 miles of around city driving ONLY. Stay off the highway. I have to say, this is pretty tough to do, lol. If you do it right, you won't have any chitter. I'd also say, try to avoid over heating it as well. No hard lauches (or getting on it) until after the break-in period. If you over heat it before the bonding material in the friction pucks have a chance to cure, you'll wear out your clutch in short order (just like brake material).
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony View Post
If you use that on the street only, I think that may be a little too much clutch for you. When that clutch grabs, it grabs really hard. Be ready to stall out at a couple lights.
My spec 3 is probably too much for the street but it works fine, my favorite one was a spec 2+.

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Originally Posted by Paulster2 View Post
I was told break-in should be 500 miles of around city driving ONLY. Stay off the highway. I have to say, this is pretty tough to do, lol. If you do it right, you won't have any chitter. I'd also say, try to avoid over heating it as well. No hard lauches (or getting on it) until after the break-in period. If you over heat it before the bonding material in the friction pucks have a chance to cure, you'll wear out your clutch in short order (just like brake material).
Listen to this guy.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:03 PM
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oh ok i hope i can drive that much with out opinging it up lol i just hope there nothing srewed up in my tranny to
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95 trans am pace setter LT headers with ORY Hooker Aerochamber exhaus tb by pass Prothane Motor Mounts lca LT4 Knock Module msd coil taylor 8.2 wires madz tune slp 160 stat 255 lph fp 42 lb injectors 600B pro charger 6psi boost
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