4l60e acting funny now fine??

[IIILuisIII]

So i pick up my wife from work and take her shopping. Once we were done shopping i start the car and notice that the car feels like its gonna stall but it doesnt. so i drive off and it feels as if the car is stuck in first but it finally shifted at about 4000 rpms but i wasnt on it. once in second, it would rev till about 3000 rpms till i felt any acceleration. however when putting the car in 2, it was accelerating normally. so i drive it like this till i get to my fathers so he can check it out, the whole time the car chirps second without me being on it.

I finally get to my fathers and park and wait for him to come out, he test drives it, and the car is fine again.. I take it home on the highway and its fine. Was this a fluke in the computer? or is my tranny going bad?

[Tony]

I will bet money that you need a new separator plate for the VB. It's a common problem, there is a ball that will get stuck in the plate and hinder shifting and cause it to slip. The plate is about $25, and the gaskets are about $10. Really easy to do, just remember how the springs go in the piston cups when you take the VB down. And, don't lose that ball on the top of the plate.

[95z28onjuice]

Tony is correct, and check the fluid,is it dirty? something in the VB can cause the same thing to happen. but chance are tony is correct

[IIILuisIII]

Thanks guys, any idea what a shop would charge to do this? i dont have my own space to try to do this.

[Tony]

I would plan on about $150 or so just for the R&R of that plate. You can call a trans shop and find out. Don't go to no discount shop, you get what you pay for here.

[95z28onjuice]

Correct you get what you pay for unless you meet an outa of work tech that gives you a great deal. 150 seems correct maybe a little more for the fluid and all. But if they go drive the car they will be able to tell you what it is

[ElrodontheV-Rod]

First thing you need to do is scan the ECM and retrieve any stored or pending codes.Write any codes down and post them up,I'll help diagnose them.
If code 1870 is stored,or pending,the valve body is worn at the TCC regulator valve.
Yes the separator plates wear at the second feed check ball seat,but the regulator valve is the most common thing to wear in ALL 4L60E's.The TCC apply valve also wears in the pump,and will cause the same thing.
You need to remove the valve body and separator plate for inspection and testing,look here http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/77754-04K-IN.pdf for instrctions on bench testing the regulator line up,and here http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/77805E-K-IN.pdf to check the apply valve and bore,should the valve body pass the test.

The Sonnax replacement valve and sleeve keeps the factory pwm apply rate,I always use the 1998 and above lineup in Escalade and other vehicles that deserve a luxury shift.
The 1998 valve also fits all years,keeping me from stocking 2 #'s.

Sonnax is a fabulous company and I use their components regularly,but,for fixing most of the typical complaints and wear areas that cause failure in the 4L60E in one shot,I prefer to use the Trans-Go shift kit in the orange box.One of the main reasons I like the TG shift kit is because it eliminates 80% of the TCC pwm,and keeps the ECM happy at the same time.The Trans-Go kit is great for the late model 4L60E because it allows the ECM to accept any type converter clutch material.You can also change the second band apply rate and custom resize 3rd and 4th feed holes to get a quicker shifting transmission for Camaro,Vette and pickup.

I would be skeptical of anyone installing any one of these fixes in these transmissions for any less than $400 + tax.There is a lot of thinking and experience involved,and anyone willing to give themselves away is probably only looking to make a few quick dollars,thus not giving the transmission the precise repair it deserves.

[95z28onjuice]

But not everyone has 400+ laying around and some want to help and make a little. So just because its cheap dont always mean its no good. i do stuff for free sometimes for goodluck does that mean it garbage and i did a bad job? anyway thanks for you opinion on the matter,i also agree with the trans go kit. i love it

[Tony]

I have been working on these things for years, and the check ball is the most common problem, period. People get tunes, they drive these cars hard, they up the line pressure, but they never check that plate. $400 just to check the plate??? Come on, You know transmissions, as do I, and if you can really sit here and say that is worth $400, your mistaken. The trans shop that I go to charges $150 to replace that plate, and that is parts and labor.

Please don't come on here trying to get someone that knows nothing about trans', and getting them tearing into there VB. As you know, there are a lot of small pieces, and if you get a single spring in the wrong place, or forget a spring, you are screwed.

But, I will say that is a great site that you linked to.

[Red Sleeper2]

You dont have to buy a new plate to fix the check ball problem.
Pontiac Trans Am LS1 TransGo Shift Kit Install - GM High-Tech Performance Magazine
The ball seat will fix the problem. I took mine to a friend at the small trans shop round the corner and he gave me the seat and told me what to do. Its very simple.

[ElrodontheV-Rod]

The ball sticking in the plate is just symptoms of another problem.The problem is the TCC regulator valve and bore wearing.When this happens the controller takes amperage away from the epc and causes hard 1-2 shifts,thus beating the plate up.
If you idiots want to dick around like a bunch of little teen aged kids with one of the most complicated pieces equiptment known to man,then have at it.
Please ban me from this little kindergarten forum.
I was asked by one of the moderators I met last night to come on this forum and give some good,honest solid transmission advice.You guys don't want good honest advice,you want to play and hold hands instead of listening to good advice.

Tony,if you knew as much as you think you do,you would have access to a lot more technical company's and information.

Next time you get a 4L60E in your shop with code 1870 stored,hook up a pressure gauge and a Volt meter and follow the GM service and diagnostic procedure for proper diagnostics of code 1870.You'll be surprised,once you learn what you are working on,just how little you thought you knew.

See ya!

[Red Sleeper2]

[QUOTE=Tony;1481878]Please don't come on here trying to get someone that knows nothing about trans', and getting them tearing into there VB. As you know, there are a lot of small pieces, and if you get a single spring in the wrong place, or forget a spring, you are screwed.QUOTE]


Tony is right, the valvebody can be your worst nightmare. I know when I did mine I locked myself in our shop all day, no phones on, radio low and I read and read and read. Swapped all the parts, took a brake and came back and did it all again to check myself. If your skeptical bout going into the trans at all and trying to mess with the valvebody then dont do it. Im only 19 but I have dont three other trans with my dad so I felt confident. Otherwise I know right were I would have taken it.

[Red Sleeper2]

Originally Posted by ElrodontheV-Rod

The ball sticking in the plate is just symptoms of another problem.The problem is the TCC regulator valve and bore wearing.When this happens the controller takes amperage away from the epc and causes hard 1-2 shifts,thus beating the plate up.
If you idiots want to dick around like a bunch of little teen aged kids with one of the most complicated pieces equiptment known to man,then have at it.
Please ban me from this little kindergarten forum.
I was asked by one of the moderators I met last night to come on this forum and give some good,honest solid transmission advice.You guys don't want good honest advice,you want to play and hold hands instead of listening to good advice.

Tony,if you knew as much as you think you do,you would have access to a lot more technical company's and information.

Next time you get a 4L60E in your shop with code 1870 stored,hook up a pressure gauge and a Volt meter and follow the GM service and diagnostic procedure for proper diagnostics of code 1870.You'll be surprised,once you learn what you are working on,just how little you thought you knew.

See ya!

Ok, take it easy Mr. V-rod. Dont get your panties in a bunch cause were questioning your authority or your information. Ok ok ok ok, we can all see that you rebuild transmissions as a prefossion. Good for you

And just because you "think" this a kids forum casue your some kinda of a hard a$$ with all your info, alright then. But you have to remember that 75%of the people on here come on here seeking advice and $hit so we help them. Not everyone is a hard ass like you and can rebuild a trans in a day... So go ahead and leave our kindergarden forum, we like it.

[Tony]

Wow, you got really defensive, really fast. Chill bro, we are all (or mostly) adults here. But, if you think that you know what you talking about, then by all means, tell the OP what he needs to do. And when he jacks up his trans, you can go over there and fix it. I know all of the codes, I know all of the parts, and I know how they work. Your not talking to some shade tree mechanic here. But, if you think your the master, by all means, talk this guy through it. I will get a good laugh out of it when he jacks it up.