Is trying to get a 383 to rev high a bad idea?

[Paulster2]

I would bet most of the 4-bolt blocks are also not very cheap (considering how rare they are ... at least that's what I've been told). Finding one may be even more fun. But you are right, Tom, getting a 4-bolt main to begin with would involve a whole lot less machine work, no matter what the cost of your machinist. What Gator just described to me sounds about right ... if you are going to do it, do it right. Jack, if you can get all of that work done for under $500, I'll take mine block down there personally (when the time comes) to have them work on it. I'm sure it would be a lot cheaper than around here (I would bet all of that work is going to cost more than five bills, but hey!)

[Gatorhead]

Gator can i get the number, im haveing issues over here. that way i can stop by and grab a bit

I will have to look it up lol I will post back with it either later tonight or tomorrow evening.

The name of the place is Partsco in Gainesville. I dealt with Flethcer "Fletch".

Also just remembered that Dart makes the LT1 version of the SHP for @ 1500.

[FANTA-Z]

The 4 bolt block isnt that rare because all Corvettes had the 4 bolts in them

[Blown1993Z28]

Originally Posted by Paulster2

Rob, something you need to read is a book by Carrol Smith (not Shelby). It's called Engineer to Win. It covers metallurgy and why mechanical stuff fails. You have to remember when you read it he wrote it a while ago, so there is new technology out there. Some of the things he does mention, though, are about alloys, how they hold up, stress risers, etc. It is a great read for anyone trying to figure out why you'd want one type of forged steel rod over another.

Thanx for the heads up, sounds like a good read. I almost just bought it @ Amazon but I gotta spend another $5 to get free shipping. As soon as I find something else to buy its on its way.

On the splayed main caps price, WOW! 10 years ago in Oklahoma they wanted $250 to drill and tap the extra 6 (or 8?) holes. $500 - $1,000 and I might just cheap out again and just get studs.

[Tony]

splayed caps shouldn't run that much even with the caps, and honing. And, the splayed caps are actually stronger than a factory 4 bolt main. That is the way that I would go...

[nick3]

the place i went to to rebuild my stroker only charged 350 making it to a 4 bolt main. and wanted to add that it helps to have a harmonic balancer on the engine rather then the stock thats about 15 years old. not sure what rpms they were designed for but cant be to high. and a major key to higher rpms and keeping the engine safe is to make sure the rotating setup is balanced well....not all people will agree with this but after having to rebuild my 383 cuz of a bad crank bearing, i also put the msd opti on for the higher rpms and the fidnaza alum flywheel went on the back of the crank for less weight, longer life and faster revs (many like the steel cuz they hold up to power better i believe) and as i mentioned the the harmonic balancer/damper. i got the powerforce plus and sfi aproved. designed to rev 10000 rpms