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You need to drain it from the drain on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. That will empty out the water in the motor enough to were you don't make a huge mess. But, before you do any of this, have you done a compression test to verify that you have a bad head gasket? I would be doing everything that I can before tearing apart the motor.
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1996 Z28, OBD-I Conversion, SLP CAI, Hooker Super Comp Headers, Custom ORY, Custom Exhaust, 3.73's, It's Slow... For everyone asking about Gear RPO codes, here they are... Gu2 : Axle rear, 2.73 ratio, gu4 : Axle rear, 3.08 ratio, gu5 : Axle rear, 3.23 ratio, gu6 : Axle rear, 3.42 ratio |
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well this is what going on first i though my car head gasket was blown because the car was bogging and miss firing so i seen a leak coming from my under my water pump so i got a new water pump and and thermostat and i unpluged i reset the pcm started the car up and it was back to normal but i started driving and my coolant light came on so i was so i pulled over and seen steam coming out from like under my passanger header and i checked and seen water coming from some where near the last spark plug near the back and it was landing on the header and making steam but in the morning im going to try to do my own header install and see what in the back thats leaking and i whould do my head gasket swap but i relly dont have that much experiance and whould need some help but .. thanks guys you always help me out
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When you go to put the headers on (if I read that right) get the manifolds off and get a mirror and look everywhere. You will been a pressure tester (can rent from autozone) and pressure up your system. This will make it leak and you will be able to see it. Make sure to check where your coolant level is in the rad, cause before you start the car, you will want to take the pressure tester off, and verify the level. If the level is low, and you have no water on the ground, it's likely that it's in the cyl and if you start the car, it will hydrolock and you will trash the motor.
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1996 Z28, OBD-I Conversion, SLP CAI, Hooker Super Comp Headers, Custom ORY, Custom Exhaust, 3.73's, It's Slow... For everyone asking about Gear RPO codes, here they are... Gu2 : Axle rear, 2.73 ratio, gu4 : Axle rear, 3.08 ratio, gu5 : Axle rear, 3.23 ratio, gu6 : Axle rear, 3.42 ratio |
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ok
ok the motor runs fines now its runs good but the leak is the thing so about the K&W NanoTechnology Head Gasket and Block Repair do i have to take my thermo start off ? here are the steps
STEP1.remove the radiator cap and thermostat. STEP2.start engine untill warm STEP3.stop the enigne and completely drain the radiator STEP4.close the drain and refill radiator with water let idle for 5 mintes to flush exesse antifreeze from system STEP5.drain cooling system completely untill water in clear STEP6.MIX K&W NanoTechnology Head Gasket and Block Repair with 3 quarts of water STEP7.add the mix to the radiator. STEP8.replace the radiator cap and idle the engine for 20 minutes dont not drive or rev engine STEP9.stop engine and allow it to cool remove radiator and open drain STEP.10 with the radiator cap and drain open allow cooling system to dty for 12 hours . STEP11. flush cooling system with water untill clear then reinstall thermostat STEp12. drain all water close drain and add anti freeze mix ok so do i have to remove my thermostat?!! to do this http://www.crcindustries.com/files/N...ir%20Flyer.pdf |
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Oh, your wanting to put stop leak in your motor... If it was my car, I would find the leak and just repair it. The stop leak can clog the rad and heater core.
But, this is your car and you can do with it as you wish. And yes, if it says to remove the thermostat, then you need to do it. Otherwise, it will shut off the flow of water through it.
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1996 Z28, OBD-I Conversion, SLP CAI, Hooker Super Comp Headers, Custom ORY, Custom Exhaust, 3.73's, It's Slow... For everyone asking about Gear RPO codes, here they are... Gu2 : Axle rear, 2.73 ratio, gu4 : Axle rear, 3.08 ratio, gu5 : Axle rear, 3.23 ratio, gu6 : Axle rear, 3.42 ratio |
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