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My “Service Engine Soon” light came on so I took it to the dealer. They diagnosed the problem as a bad O2 sensor so I had them repair it. About six months later the same light came back on so I took it to AutoZone and had them do a free diagnosis. They gave me the code (I’ll have to look it up in my records) and told me it was something different than the O2 sensor. I took it back to the dealer and gave them the code and asked them to diagnose the problem. I believe this time it was an “Air Check Valve and Gasket.” I again had them repair the problem. About three months later, the same light came back on. When I got my car back to the dealer that Saturday, the light had gone off again. Since then it has periodically gone on and off over time. Now that it is time for me to get my car inspected, they won’t pass it while the light is on. I decided to try to get it to a shop as soon as the light went off again but ironically, I am running out of time before my sticker expires. Is there any way I can avoid this problem without costly auto repairs? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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well you could buy a code reader from your local parts store and if the light comes on agin just use the code reader to cleer the codes.
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01 blk ss. MODS: 224/224 114 thunder grind comp cam,spring,rods, retainers,QTP headers, Y pipe, cut out, 3200 stall, trans go shift kit, under drive pully, 3.73's, ported TB, HP tune, Tq mang deleted, M/T drag radials, and austin ram air kit. Now on 243 built heads, 10.7.1 compression, sfc, Tpis 90, tpis 90 TB,and safty loop. Best ET 12.005 @ 113.40 so far |
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You can always just pull your battery cable, and wait for like 20 mins or so to reset your code. Or their is a writeup to do it with the PCM Bat fuse, but I always have better luck with unhooking the battery. Hope this helps
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2000 z28 Mods: Free Mods, Granetelli Whisper Lid, Ghetto Dynomax Muffler(off my buddies Dakota RT) Best Time: 13.4@106 |
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If you have a parts store near buy they can check your codes and delete them free in most cases.
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01 blk ss. MODS: 224/224 114 thunder grind comp cam,spring,rods, retainers,QTP headers, Y pipe, cut out, 3200 stall, trans go shift kit, under drive pully, 3.73's, ported TB, HP tune, Tq mang deleted, M/T drag radials, and austin ram air kit. Now on 243 built heads, 10.7.1 compression, sfc, Tpis 90, tpis 90 TB,and safty loop. Best ET 12.005 @ 113.40 so far |
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I've found disconnecting the battery doesn't always clear the codes. O2 sensor codes will stay for at least 3 drives before they clear themselves
The battery trick always worked on my Nissans, but not my Camaro. Let me ask this...when you throw codes, are they coming when you're at wide open throttle? That's when mine comes on - at about 5k rpms. I'm throwing 02 sensor codes, and have new sensors that I just haven't installed yet.
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www.nissan4wheelers.com 2000 Camaro Z28 Street Rocket / 1998 Solid Axle Nissan Frontier 4x4 / 2002 Heavily modded Nissan Xterra 4x4 / 2007 Nissan Murano S AWD / 2004 Suzuki Intruder VS800 / Briggs and Stratton 4 hp 22" cut lawnmower |
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So the trick didn't work and I failed at two places! The code is "P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshhold (bank 1)" I made an appt to take it in, but I'm terrified they're gonna try to fuk me outta the O2 sensor money I already paid them to fix. How many O2 sensors are there? 2? I've just never really heard of a Cat converter going out... yet...am I wrong here? I can't imagine it being the problem HERE. I saw someone in a diff room mention a recall on the cat. converter but I looked all over GM and couldn't find anything????The light is on as soon as I turn the key on. HELP PLEASE! I'm going to rip my hair out :-(
Last edited by trixie128; 11-28-2007 at 04:00 PM.. |
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THere was a service bulletin to replace your cats. I had it done, just ask the dealership, mine was in and out, no charge. Search TSB #05513 Here. Hope this helps!
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2000 z28 Mods: Free Mods, Granetelli Whisper Lid, Ghetto Dynomax Muffler(off my buddies Dakota RT) Best Time: 13.4@106 |
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Thanks for the help guys. I REALLY appreciate it. Unfortunately, I took it in to the dealer for them to diagnose the problem as a bad cat. converter! $97 diagnostic fee. They said "Sure! We can fix it today! It will be $782 plus tax" OUCH! So I paid the $82 for the "Dealer" synthetic oil change and the $97 diagnostic fee and picked her up. I want to fix her but I just can't afford it right now...not even close! I ended up getting a $100 bootleg sticker in the ghetto and buying myself some time. I feel no hesitation or problems with the car running. Can NOT replacing the cat. converter damage my car? She's the only car I have so if I have to eat out of the garbage for a month to fix her I will! NO JOKE. I bought the car from a Chevy dealer but I bought it used so they said the TSB didn't mean any repairs would be covered. So what's your advice? What should I do in the best interest of THE CAR?
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That's B.S. I bought mine used too, and the dealership covered it, Find a new dealership to take your car too, or a muffler shop, or wherever, just not that place again. They are trying to rip you off.
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2000 z28 Mods: Free Mods, Granetelli Whisper Lid, Ghetto Dynomax Muffler(off my buddies Dakota RT) Best Time: 13.4@106 |
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Thanks guys. It's pretty disappointing that I can't find ONE decent place to take my car in ALL of Houston. I will never understand why people are so crooked. Thanks again! You all helped more than you know :-)
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