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I have noticed that the heater will not blow quite as hard as the A/C. Did you try all of the settings (ie. floor, defrost, high/low, vents) to see if there was any different reaction?
If you have a leak, then you need to get it replaced. That means that there is crap on the inside of the heater core that is eating it and has caused a hole. |
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I didn't think of checking both upper and lower vents, but I did try turning the knob back and fourth on A/C, MAX, defroster, and a few of the vent settings for heat/fresh air. and it acted the same on all of them. There was air coming out but just not nearly as much as the on the cold side and it was just barely a tiny bit warmer than fresh air when I switched it over to heat. Also, I don't have any water leak on the floor inside that I've seen like a lot of cars will do but it is coming from behind the firewall right under where the hoses go through. The heater core is pretty easy to change in these cars isnt it? Seems like I saw a thread about it a while back.
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- Willy ![]() 1997 Camaro Z28 (LT1/T56): K&N CAI | Kooks 1 3/4" LTs | 3" Custom Duals | UMI LCAs w/ relocation brackets | UMI adj. panhard bar | UMI adj. torque arm | Koni SA shocks | Strano Springs | Ram Powergrip clutch | Pro 5.0 shifter | skip shift eliminator kit | WS6 Store rotors | Hawk HPS pads |
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I remember seeing the thread, and I remember them saying that is was pretty easy, but I don't know cause I have never done it. I would find out where the water is coming from. There is a drain for the A/C where water will drip out of the firewall, and if you have a small leak, and the tube is not clogged, antifreeze will come out this same hole. It's when the leak gets really bad that it will end up on the floor board. But, find out exactly where it's coming from, and weather it's clear, or green/red, whatever color you have in your rad.
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- Willy ![]() 1997 Camaro Z28 (LT1/T56): K&N CAI | Kooks 1 3/4" LTs | 3" Custom Duals | UMI LCAs w/ relocation brackets | UMI adj. panhard bar | UMI adj. torque arm | Koni SA shocks | Strano Springs | Ram Powergrip clutch | Pro 5.0 shifter | skip shift eliminator kit | WS6 Store rotors | Hawk HPS pads |
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changing the heater core is easy. i've done it twice and about to do it again for the third time lol. pull the glove box out and there will be a compartment behind it. i think there are like 4 screws and pop that cover off and it's right there. take the 2 hoses loose under the hood. there is also a metal clamp thing on the pipes going into the firewall that has a screw in it. after you get the clamp and the hoses off, the heater core should come right out. reverse for install.
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'94 B4C | LT1 383 Stroker | M6 w/B&M Ripper| PCM4 Less Tune| Pacecetter LTs and ORY The name's Zach
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- Willy ![]() 1997 Camaro Z28 (LT1/T56): K&N CAI | Kooks 1 3/4" LTs | 3" Custom Duals | UMI LCAs w/ relocation brackets | UMI adj. panhard bar | UMI adj. torque arm | Koni SA shocks | Strano Springs | Ram Powergrip clutch | Pro 5.0 shifter | skip shift eliminator kit | WS6 Store rotors | Hawk HPS pads |
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I'm finding it might actually be the heater valve. Anybody know where exactly that is?
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- Willy ![]() 1997 Camaro Z28 (LT1/T56): K&N CAI | Kooks 1 3/4" LTs | 3" Custom Duals | UMI LCAs w/ relocation brackets | UMI adj. panhard bar | UMI adj. torque arm | Koni SA shocks | Strano Springs | Ram Powergrip clutch | Pro 5.0 shifter | skip shift eliminator kit | WS6 Store rotors | Hawk HPS pads |
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could just be a hose leaking? or one of the pipe lines? and if your coolant is alittle low your heater sometimes doesnt get hot so i would check that.
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I will check that but I'm pretty sure its not because the coolant is too low. The leak is very slow and the night I found the problem I had just topped it off.
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- Willy ![]() 1997 Camaro Z28 (LT1/T56): K&N CAI | Kooks 1 3/4" LTs | 3" Custom Duals | UMI LCAs w/ relocation brackets | UMI adj. panhard bar | UMI adj. torque arm | Koni SA shocks | Strano Springs | Ram Powergrip clutch | Pro 5.0 shifter | skip shift eliminator kit | WS6 Store rotors | Hawk HPS pads |
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