Question re mods

[blueorb]

I know you guys get tired of these questions but I just want to get some opinions before I dropped all of this money.
In the next 2 months or so I will be dropping about $1200.00 into the car. I am not looking to do headers or cams or anything like that. So far this is what I have planned:

1) Hooker Cat back (399.99) (yes, I know it's not a popular choice but I love the sound of it).
2) Fast Toys Ram Air Kit (174.95)
3) SLP air lid (99.95)
4) UMI subframe connectors (139.99)
5) UMI strut tower brace (79.99)

Total so far is 834.87. How do those sound so far?
Some of this will be bought for b-day/x-mas so I will have a little more to drop. My next decision is whethere to go with a lowering of the car (springs and shocks) or to go with upgraded brake rotors/pads.
Opinions?

Thanks.

[hot_wheels21]

don't get the fast toys ram air kit they say it lays low and can suck water into the engine go with the slp flowpac

[blueorb]

Originally Posted by hot_wheels21

don't get the fast toys ram air kit they say it lays low and can suck water into the engine go with the slp flowpac

Good to know. Wasn't aware of that. Thoughts on the other stuff? Lower the car or rotors/pads?

[hot_wheels21]

I'm in the same boat I need brakes but I want to lower the car so I can't help ya lol....

[keliente@pcmforless.com]

Save some cash by buying some parts used...you can find air lids all day long for $50. Try the for-sale forums on www.ls1tech.com I buy a lot of stuff there. Same goes for the catback!

I would lower the car before swapping brakes, since LS1 brakes stop pretty good from the factory (unless yours are warped). Make sure to pick up a good set of shocks when you install the springs, your stock decarbon's won't ride well with any set of lowering springs. Not to mention the fact that you have to break down the front spring/shock assembly anyway, might as well do springs/shocks at the same time and save yourself some labor.

[Phantompooper]

Exactly what Kelly said, buying used can save you easily another $200 from your total cost. I agree with the SLP flopac, good investment. It will come with the CAI and the lid. Subframe connectors and the shock tower brace are a good idea (buy used!! especially since nobody sees them anyway). Possibly lower control arms or a torque arm, and if it were me, I'd go with the lowering springs.

[SOMSS]

I'd go with Ground Control Coilovers with Bilstein shocks or the Bilstein BTS System personally. As for rotors get some Brembo blanks for like $260 for front and rears rotors.

[Mykdiver]

The FTRA is a waste of $ I had it, and it did not pick me up anything at the track, so I sold it.

[HMFDZ28]

The Catback is all your own preferance, you love the sound so go for it. Deff go the way of the SLP cold air pac. Well worth the money, good performance, looks clean and dont have to worry about water issues like Fast toys. Kelly is right about buying used, hell I got my converter for a damn good price along with alot of my mods. Accually only the appearance and Corsa were new.

[blueorb]

Thanks for all of the feedback. I think I will be going with the following:

1) Hooker Cat back
2) SLP Cold Air
3) SLP air lid
4) UMI subframe connectors (139.99)
5) UMI strut tower brace (79.99)
6) Ground Control Coilovers with Bilstein shocks (I like the fact that the ride hight is adjustable).

And yes, I am already searching ebay and other for sale boards. Thanks again everyone.

[justinakajuice]

FYI: The SLP CAI comes with the lid.

If you plan on lowering the car get the tubular subframe connectors, if not get the diamond shape. When I installed my SFC's, tubular, they made a HUGE difference in handling even just riding in a straight line. If I wasnt planning on lowering in the future, I would definately get the diamonds.

Bilsteins. Can't go wrong there!

Hooker catback, great choice, love the sound. Don't be disappointed if there is only a small difference in sound at first. You really don't get the full effect until you do headers.

[blueorb]

[QUOTE=justinakajuice]FYI: The SLP CAI comes with the lid.
QUOTE]

Yeah, but there is a $50 difference just for the smooth bellows. I think will get the lid and the induction kit seperate and save the $50 towards something else.
Thanks re the info on the SFC's. That is one of the things I am having a hard time deciding (whether to go tubular or not). I wasn't sure if the tubular connectors were as strong/as good.

Another question. Since I will be lowering my car will I need to relocate my lower control arm (buy relocation brackets)? Also, will I need a new panhard bar (adjustable)?

Thanks.

[Phantompooper]

Yes you need relocator brackets and yes you should get an adjustable panhard rod. These items will help the geometry of the rear end once it's lowered.

[blueorb]

Cool. Thanks Phantom!

[hot_wheels21]

you dont neccesarily need the lower control arm relocation brackets they will give you back some traction you lost when you lowered the car though a adjustable panhard rod is definitley needed to recenter the rear so you don't have premature wear on the tires. I'd get both if you can afford it.