SES Code yet again

[squirrelishere]

Got it scanned and it came up with this:

P0135 - HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1

It's an o2 sensor I think, any help please on what it is and fixing it please?

[HMFDZ28]

Have you gotten a tune yet???? Regardless you may wanna swap your O2's out for the Vette O2's. They seem to hold up better.

[Randy L]

It's telling you the driver's side pre-cat O2 sensor's heater circuit is malfuntioning. It could be a loose/corroded/dirty connection so check & clean the wiring connectors to see if that does the trick. The heater circuit is used to heat the O2 sensor up quickly so it can begin doing it's job quicker. The O2 needs to get up to a minimum temperature before it can effectively operate.

[camarokid02]

ive got an ses light on too now!

can i take it to autozone or something and will they scan it and gimme the codes?

if not where can i take it to find out?

[squirrelishere]

camarokid- Yes, take it to Autozone, they scan it for free. Just tell them your car is throwing a code and they'll grab the scanner and go out with you to your car.

Yes, I already got a tune from madz28.com. I did do the whole Longtubes with no cats. So the problem is basically the o2 sensor right guys? If it's a quick fix, it's done, but if not, then I need a new o2 sensor right?

[Jasin]

yeah, new o2 sensor is about 50 bucks.. rear ones are easy front ones are harder because they are in a tight space but you can do em.

[Randy L]

Actually they are easy now since he has LT's. They are right there in the open at the collector. Do you have coated headers? And if so, did you replace them after the burn-in period? Still, a bad O2 would show the sensor is bad, not the heater circuit. I'd double check the integrity of the connections and the O2 extension cables you most likely have on because of the LT's.

[squirrelishere]

Cool, thanks Randy. Yes, I have Pacesetter coated LTs. I did not know there was a burn in period. What's the burn-in period? I had my LTs put it 11/24/2006.

I will check the extensions today.

[mustang muncher]

I never heard of a burn in period either.....and ive had my headers for about 2 years and re-used the stock 02 sensors that i cut and spliced to extend them.

[Randy L]

It seems to be a common occurence with ceramic coated headers, that after about a month or so of use, the coating that may be on the inside will get cooked off and clog/foul the sensors. Quite a few have reported "destroyed sensors" after "burning in" their headers, causing all sorts of hesitation and poor running conditions.

But many folks have also gotten lucky and not had their sensors go bad.

[squirrelishere]

Now here's another for you Randy, since I haven't check the sensors yet, if the SES light isn't on anymore, then for sure it could be the wiring right? Cuz it was on before and now it's off.

[Randy L]

Not necessarily, from what I've read, the PCM will not lock onto certain codes since it isn't a critical issue. Others may wanna chime in on this one.

Some codes like a misfire detection ( I believe) may go off & on without resetting the code.

My recommendation is to buy a good O2 sensor, like the Denso (cheap and VERY dependable from users), and check ALL the connections for the O2 circuit (from the PCM wiring harnesses to the O2 sensor).

[camarokid02]

after installing a new maf im throwing po171 p0170 and po174, all lean banks, 1 and 2

:@:@ is there any way to fix this without scrapping a 300$ maf?

[keliente@pcmforless.com]

Scrap the MAF and put the money towards headers. Would you rather get 1 hp and a headache of codes for $300 (maf) or 20 hp+ with $500 (headers)??? A new MAF is completely unnecessary as our stock ones are plenty good.

[jollyroger]

Originally Posted by Randy L

Not necessarily, from what I've read, the PCM will not lock onto certain codes since it isn't a critical issue. Others may wanna chime in on this one.

Some codes like a misfire detection ( I believe) may go off & on without resetting the code.

My recommendation is to buy a good O2 sensor, like the Denso (cheap and VERY dependable from users), and check ALL the connections for the O2 circuit (from the PCM wiring harnesses to the O2 sensor).

If it's OBD1 than the light may come on and off regardless of the presence of codes, but OBD2 systems typically keep the light on until codes are cleared. Anything to do with O2's will kick a light because if a sensor is bad the pcm won't go into closed loop like it wants to.

Also if the Heater is bad the o2 is generally bad.

A quick way to find out whether it is the o2 sensor or something else is to switch the o2's around and clear the codes. If the code follows where you placed the bad sensor then you've nailed it. If it doesn't than it's something further up the system. The probability of the o2 sensor being bad is very likely, but it's always best to be sure than to throw parts at the problem and hope it goes away.