Amplifier

[transamws6_97]

Okay I'm lost when it comes to amps....say I have two subs with RMS from 50-250...what power amp will I need to sufficiently power these subs. It will be a mono channel amb since it's just powering subs. One set of subs I'm looking at is dual 2-ohm coils and the other set is a 4-ohm coil

[Randy L]

Funny but RMS ratings for a speaker are normally a specific wattage, rather than a range. With that, an amp from 200-500 watts should be perfect for the TWO subs.

But make sure the box you put them in is well tuned for the specs of the subs...called Thiele/Small parameters. A properly designed and tuned box makes a night & day difference in the the sound the subs/speakers make.

[transamws6_97]

Well I have the standard q logic sub box for 93-02 fbodys but as far as any specs on the box I have no idea.

And if you go on crutchfield all their subs are listed with a range but the car speakers I believe are a certain number

[mullettman]

just get a 600 watt amp and bridge the subs you will get all the boom you want
but dont max the amp out set it to where it sounds good dont over power the sub or they will go ka-boom (your gain dial)

[richard96]

My infinity 10" sub has the same range. I gave it 110 rms to each voice coil. (220w rms) and turned the gain down 15%. 1 10" is really impressive in the stealth box.

[Maroon Z]

Look at an amp that does it's rated rms power @ 2 ohm. 2 subs with dual 2 ohm coils can be wired to 0.5 ohm, 2 ohm, or 8 ohm. 2 subs with single 4 ohm ohm coils can be wired to 2 ohm or 8 ohm. Go with a Mono amp that does around ~500w @ 2 ohm. Kicker makes good amps, most of their mono's are stable down to 2 ohm.

The box/enclosure a speaker goes into is more important than the speaker it's self. If that Q logic box is sealed, then you will probably be ok, if it's ported...well it probably won't sound very good.

[mychevyisntheavy]

if you want some deep low bass i`d go with what i have swr 1222d alpine sub, and a 500 watt apline class d mono amp. you can build your own box. mine is about 3ftx12x12. with a port on one side with two baffles in side. cut a slot 1 1/2x11 or 10. you have to put these baffles inside the box. one baffle at the top with about a 1 1/2 slot. and the other at the bottum with the same size slot. use gorilla glue to seal the edges. and screws to put the sides all together. i got about $ 500.00 in all thats the radio and sub and amp and its i got it all new.

[flak_monkey]

RMS power is actually a range. It means the average amount of failure a subwoofer can sustain for a long period of time. It is also based on the enclosure efficiency, and can vary based on a box being sealed, ported or other designs.

RMS for a sealed woofer is thermal power handling, how much it can take before it burns up.

RMS for a ported woofer is thermal until it reaches below the tuning frequency of the box, how much it can take before it breaks itself apart. The air in the box stops acting like a spring at that point and the driver free airs or waffles back and forth with no support on the moving parts and eventually fails mechanically.

Often times the RMS should be observed as a THERMAL power limit of a system to err on the side of safety. That is of course unless you are specifically designing a box that can be modeled in the computer, and you can see how far the woofer will move in and out at a certain frequency at certain power levels and adjust amp size accordingly. For instance, my box is 3.5 cubes tuned to 26hz. With my woofer, I cannot exceed about 18hz with more than 1200w or I will blow the woofer mechanically. Above 20hz I'm good till about 1.2 thousand watts, 200 over the thermal RMS guideline. I can go down to 15hz with 600w in this box.