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Is this kit any good?
I was wondering if the kit was any good. I am looking to make my car handle better and look better. Any input would be great.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...140+4294841605+
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02 Dodge Ram QC for the winter months |
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It is my daily driver. I just want it to be able to handle corners confidently. I still plan on taking to the drag strip a couple times a summer. I don't really have any places around here for a track or anything. I would just like it to be more fun to drive around the twisties is about all.
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02 Dodge Ram QC for the winter months |
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Well, it's not a bad kit, but there are better ones out there. I don't think it's the best idea to buy any manufacturers 'kit'. Buying a kit doesn't allow your personal preferences to dictate anything with the hanlding characteristics of the car. It's just a group of parts someone else decided to work together and it may or may not. Your best bet would be to either do some research and see what's good and what you want to spend or call Sam Strano and talk to him.
How much would you be willing to spend? I have done 'alot' to mine, and I have about $3200 in mine (including my summer/sport tires, and brake 'upgrades'). My first piece of advice for you would to be go through the steering and suspension and replace any worn out bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, etc before delving into modifications. Then, I would reccomend deciding on the tires and shocks you want for the car, then getting the car a sport/street allignment. Then springs, sway bars, LCAs, LCARBs, SFCs, all the other icing on the cake. The tires/shocks/allignment will get you the most bang for your buck, but the rest will help define you tune the handling to your desires.
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Last edited by Etown_RS; 05-12-2009 at 07:25 PM.. |
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97 z28 383 stroked 11.5:1 230/236 .57X lift with 110LSA: stage2 P&P with beehive 918's: 1.6 RR: Hardened Pushrods: 32#inj's: 58mm TB: Delteq: Pace Setter Headers:!Cats !Air !EVAP !EGR: 3" Magnaflow: LCA: LCA relocation B's: UMI torque arm: pro 5.0 connected to a Spec Stage2 spinning Nitto DR's
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Thanks. The bmr fabrication one sounds like a good deal. I got some time because i am going to need new tires before i dig into that.
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02 Dodge Ram QC for the winter months |
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Frist thing I did was to get rid of those stupid hollow sway bar. Then you go to Summit racing and look for the biggest one you can find. Boy did it improve my handling.......... Next would be new shocks................
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1996 Z28 - M6 Lingenfelter CAI, Trick Flow Intake Elbow, Modified Flow Master exhaust, Hellwig Solid Sway bars, Center Force dual friction Clutch, SPEC Flywheel, Hurst shifter |
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I won't say its bad but you could do a lot better for about the same money. going with UMI for the LCAs, relocation brackets, adjustable panhard, and adjustable torque arm, then some KYB AGX shocks and strano springs would run right about the same and give MUCH better quality components. I'm not sure about all of edelbrocks suspension stuff but I know thier torque arms are a joke. guys break em all the time.
Its not the stock ones being hollow that is the problem. Its just that they're wimpy ass little bars. a lot of auto Xers actually prefer hollow for weight savings since a good hollow bar still has the strength required. If you want to save some cash though and arent concerned with a bit of extra weight a solid is fine too. Also, if you get too big of a sway bar on the rear it will cause the car to be prone to oversteer, while too much on the front will cause understeer. So in other words balance plays a big role. I am still learning about them myself so I can't give specific numbers like for what size sway bar is too much or too little and whatnot, but I know Strano and some others make good matched kits. Note that all of the above is referring to handling, not drag racing.
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- Willy ![]() 1997 Camaro Z28 (LT1/T56): K&N CAI | Kooks 1 3/4" LTs | 3" Custom Duals | UMI LCAs w/ relocation brackets | UMI adj. panhard bar | UMI adj. torque arm | Koni SA shocks | Strano Springs | Ram Powergrip clutch | Pro 5.0 shifter | skip shift eliminator kit | WS6 Store rotors | Hawk HPS pads Last edited by nighthawk15; 05-14-2009 at 02:56 PM.. |
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For just a DD, I'd say shocks and a front sway bar is all you need. Unless you want to lower it. Some SFCs couldn't hurt. Talk to Sam Strano, he'll tell you exactly what you need.
http://www.stranoparts.com/ |
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Quote:
always a good descision. ![]()
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- Willy ![]() 1997 Camaro Z28 (LT1/T56): K&N CAI | Kooks 1 3/4" LTs | 3" Custom Duals | UMI LCAs w/ relocation brackets | UMI adj. panhard bar | UMI adj. torque arm | Koni SA shocks | Strano Springs | Ram Powergrip clutch | Pro 5.0 shifter | skip shift eliminator kit | WS6 Store rotors | Hawk HPS pads |
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Quote:
I was about to reply to that post, but you hit the nail on the head. You don't want a huge sway bar on one end and the stock one on the back. It'll throw the suspension out of balance. Back when I didn't know better, I replaced my rear bar with the biggest one I could find and it made the car over-steer bad. I'm running a hollow front bar and a solid rear, but I plan on getting a hollow rear bar as well. Lighter with the same resistance as the solid bar.
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UMI is going to be your best bet for product and pricing. Go to www.herronperformance.com and Shon will hook you up big time. I went with the mild steel and saved money. For the same money as the edelbrock, you can get a strut tower brace, springs, shocks, sub frame connectors, lower control arms, panhard bar, and sway bars. Add for torque arm. If you want better springs and shocks, add for that too.
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Cam video: http://s457.photobucket.com/albums/q...lt4l60e013.flv ![]() One big love affair! Hate those wheels. |
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the bmr kits are great, but if you want to corner without bind i would go with a tubular lca with sphircal ends, wont bind up on a hard corner.
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Hello my name is TOM and my car is FROSTBITE! |
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