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Depends whether you want to "upgrade" or just need to replace old worn parts with something that's just slightly better. These Calipers appear to be no better than the OEM single-piston variety. Summit do carry a direct bolt-on SSBC 2-pistom Caliper for our cars ...unfortunately a pair is well over $300. For about this same money you can get a Wilwood 4-piston Caliper. Don't buy any Rotors until you decide because with these latter there are different diameters & thicknesses to consider.
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I dont race it but occasionally I will get some moron in their little sport compact with a 20 inch tailpipe thinking they are bad cause they got mommies car and you gotta dust them! actually I only raced aginst one car so far- 1995 Dodge stealth and he was seeing nothing but my taillights... I am just looking for something for a better setup that wont make me completely broke and when I do step on it, I can stop so I can live to tell about it!
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Pads and calipers make more of a difference than rotors do. Get some good flat rotors and spend the money on the pads and calipers. Or, replace the whole front brake set-up. You really don't need slotted and drilled rotors unless you are racing (track) or are running "organic" pads.
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Not saying that you shouldn't run them on the street, but that the bang for the buck factor would be more felt in the pads and calipers. I know a guy on TGO sells a LS1 (98+ two piston) calipers with 12 inch rotors as a kit on TGO. He also has C4 HD (ZR1 brakes), C5 brakes, 1LE, and the Wilwood kit. They range from $600 (I think it's $600) to $1000 for the 4 piston Wilwood. That is the whole kit. Lines, pads, rotors, hubs, spindles, calipers, everything, ready to blot in. I'm planning to get the WilWoods on a 13" rotors ASAP.
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To answer the original question, because I am sure there are going to be people that still wonder the same thing. Going with an Autozone caliper over a Bendix caliper isn't going to hurt you any. There isn't much you can do to a stock caliper to make it better than another stock caliper. When you start looking at loaded calipers (comes with pads) is where a difference comes in. A pad upgrade is one of the easiest ways to improve brake feel and performance. Going with the cheapest pad you can find will still get the job done....but they wear faster, tend to fade quickly under repeated braking, and the smell of burnt brakes under a single panic (med/hard to hard brake application) stop is never reassuring!! When it comes to rotors, sure slotted and cross drilled looks cool, but it really isn't needed unless you are our auto crossing or racing. If you drive a car with cross drilled rotors in a climate that gets below freezing, you run the risk of cracking rotors as well. If you really want to get a "better" rotor, go with slotted only. Slots keep more surface area than just a drilled rotor. Oh, I didn't mention that a slotted or cross drilled rotor takes away from your actual brake rotor surface. Most people don't think about that either. Sure they help clean and vent the pads, but if you go with a good pad, that doesn't normally happen on the street to a point that it is a benefit to have less gripping surface.
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92 Trans Am 383 TPI 700R4 1 of 969 produced LS1 30lb/hr injectors, Holley adjustable fuel pressure regulator Flowmaster Force II w/3" cat 17" C5 wheels with Baer Claw brakes up front, 18" C5 wheels with 98 camaro rear disk axle in back |
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